Thursday, February 21, 2013

A Catalonian Sojourn



Taking a trip abroad in the middle of a university term was something I hadn’t done in my first two years at Durham. The second term of the academic year is always the busiest and sneaking away for a few days may appear to be a slightly sinful thing to do. I was hesitant at first, wondering if my academic progress would be affected. Between getting a first (not that I’m actually on course for one) and watching Lionel Messi – arguably the greatest footballer around – play live, however, the choice was an easy one to make. Spain has also been a country I’ve always wanted to visit – I acknowledge that some may not consider Barcelona to be Spain – and I’d only heard rave reviews about the Catalan capital. Tim and I managed to secure a Groupon deal which included a two-night stay in a small hotel near Park Güell and a Barcelona F.C. match, although we decided to extend our sojourn by a night, electing to move to a hostel near to Las Ramblas. Being afforded such few days to visit Barcelona, I was thankful to receive recommendations and helpful advice from my History classmate, Robbie, who spent a year abroad in the city. 

Being a student of History, I’ve always found that some knowledge of a place’s past does wonders to heighten one’s appreciation of it. Having known little about modern Spanish history, I prepared for the trip by watching documentaries on the Spanish Civil War and by reading George Orwell’s Homage to Catalonia, an autobiographical account of Orwell’s participation in the conflict. Being more comfortable with modern political history made me decide to focus on the Spanish Civil War, a much, much more complex affair than I had previously conceived of it to be, and the impressions I had gained about it from school needed revision.

Barcelona-Getafe

My former housemate, Laura, went for this fixture last season which saw the Catalan giants thrash Getafe 4-0. In all honesty, as much as I’ve a soft spot for Barςa and want them to continue running away with the La Liga title (the late Sir Bobby Robson managed them for a season in the late 1990s), I was hoping that Barcelona-Getafe would be a more competitive encounter this time round. A middle-aged, bearded man alerted us to the metro stop just as we were going to alight one stop later and he kindly walked with us to the Nou Camp. He had been a regular at games for many years and helpfully explained the curious timing (12 noon) of the fixture. He informed us that the games were usually in the evenings but that Barςa-Getafe was pushed to noon to allow young children to attend the match.

The Nou Camp’s capacity almost reaches 100,000 and we faced slight difficulties locating our gate and seats. We were seated in the lowest tier, about 16-20 rows behind the goal, probably the worst seats I’ve had for a football match. Spectators in front of us had a habit of standing up whenever the ball was near the penalty box and although Barςa scored two goals, courtesy of Alexis and Messi, in the first half, I only managed to see half of the first, and was completely blocked from the second. The lack of elevation of the rows behind the goal and my lack of height frustrated my enjoyment of the first half. The second half, which saw five goals scored, was more edifying. At least we got to see all five goals in clear view (no one stood up when Getafe nicked a consolation) and it was nice to see all the goals scored by different individuals.
Although the Barςa game played a large part in compelling me to visit the Catalonian capital, I’ve to admit that the experience was slightly underwhelming. Perhaps, it had to do with the fixture itself, but the atmosphere was subdued for most part and the number of tourists (Tim and I included) in the Nou Camp didn’t help. In fact, we were surrounded by fellow Groupon-ers from England! It was nonetheless a pleasure and a privilege to be able to watch a master-class performance by Iniesta but the fact that I didn’t get to see Messi’s goal still irks me today. What am I going to tell my grandchildren?

A Series of Unfortunate Events

Lady Luck proved elusive during our short stay and our trip began on a unfortunate note as we confused our hotel’s address and had to walk (on an upward slope) for 20 minutes before we reached our accommodation near Park Guell.

The cable car and funicular to Montjuic were both under maintenance while we were there and we had to resort to taking a bus up the ‘Jewish Mountain.’
The Castle on Montjuic
The Magic Fountain was also, to our horror, under maintenance and we missed the chance to see it while Freddie Mercury/Montserrat Caballe’s rendition of ‘Barcelona’ played in the background.

I almost got a heart-attack when we checked into our hostel at 10 p.m. (for a third night) only to realise that we’d gotten the booking totally wrong. We had booked the hostel for March and not February and were informed that the hostel was fully-booked for that evening. The thought of having to look for another hostel so late at night, dragging our bags along the streets of Barcelona, made my heart sink into temporary despair. Fortunately, a less popular hostel situated two doors away had vacancies.  
At Bar Tomas - reputed to be the best place for patatas bravas

It could’ve been worse – we could have been mugged while in Raval or pickpocketed along the Ramblas. In fact, our series of unfortunate events may have made the trip a more memorable one.



Feeding birds at Park Guell


On the roof of the La Pedrera




The Sagrada Familia
On the whole, I found Barcelona to be a marvelous place to visit and the locals were always friendly even though we spoke few words of Spanish, let alone Catalan (except for orders of Tallat and Cafe amb llet). I found the Ramblas area really attractive and all over the city, one will find many architecturally appealing and interesting buildings, notably those of Gaudi. The Sagrada's also a unique religious building which certainly stands in contrast to the numerous cathedrals I've come across in Europe. It humours me to read Orwell labelling it 'one of the most hideous building in the world,' lamenting that the Anarchists 'showed bad taste in not blowing it up when they had the chance.' There was, however, too much to do and see and our trip was conducted at a quicker pace than a usual 'holiday' would entail. I'm keen on returning to Barςa someday. Maybe when the Sagrada's finally completed in 2026.

Monday, February 18, 2013

Sir Bobby at 80


The late Sir Bobby Robson would have been 80 today. It feels like only yesterday when I received the news of his passing, after a long battle with cancer, in July 2009 when I was in Malaysia. Despite him having admitted that he would lose the battle sooner rather than later, the news came as a massive shock to me. I’m glad that, almost four years later, his legacy lives on in those whom he had influenced and is still fondly remembered by many in the footballing world. On a personal note, he played a major role in my decision to support Newcastle United and the way he conducted himself during his illustrious career serves as an inspiration to me. I hope that even as football, to many fans, appears to be becoming more associated with money and glamour, men like Sir Bobby will continue to be remembered for what football should really be about.

An entry I wrote on Facebook shortly after his passing:

Although he recently admitted that he was losing his battle with cancer, this piece of news still comes as a tremendous shock to me. As I write in the comfort of my cousin's hostel in Kampar, I realise that it was in Malaysia where I was in the closest proximity to him (not as close as I'd like though). When he went up to receive the FA Premier League Asia Cup Runners-up trophy, one could feel a certain inexplicable aura that he emanated as he walked up the stairs. There he was, a man of undeniable football genius and a sterling character which had served him well throughout an illustrious career in football. I felt I was in the presence of a footballing "God". 

I don't think any manager can boast of having won major titles in Portugal, Holland, England and Spain, all leading European footballing nations. This was a man who brought Ipswich Town the UEFA Cup with all but 4 players having been from the club's youth academy. A man who nearly brought England to the World Cup final and lifted a Newcastle in shambles to the dizzy heights of 3rd place. More important, this legend never failed to conduct himself with great humility and an extraordinary calm regardless of the circumstances. Being a Newcastle fan, I can safely say that he's by far my favourite manager and I sorely miss the times when he was at the St. James Park dugout. After his sacking and the ignomonious treatment he received from the board and certain sections of the fans, Newcastle never got near the 5th place we finished in in his last full season there. Retribution perhaps? I mean, you can't just dismiss a man of his stature just because of a poor start to the season. Till his death, I've no doubt that he was the most respected living English manager and I believe that so many in the industry can learn from his example. I'm sure Mourinho, who was his translator during his managerial stint in Portugal, would agree with me. 

I'm glad to know that just last weekend, a tribute match had been played for him with proceeds going to his Cancer Foundation. In retrospect, the timing could not have been any more apposite as there were 33,000 screaming supporters there to send this footballing great off. 

So what if you're the most skilful player in the world? So what if your transfer involved a world record fee? You'll only be remembered as a great player, not as a great human being. We all, football fan or not, can take a leaf out of this man's book. After Robert McNamara died, Jordan remarked that we live in a time when great men die. I guess we should be more worried if we are in one when none lived.’