Mining Their Business: Durham Miners Gala 2013

Coming back to Durham from the cauldron that was Southern Spain, I was thankful to have been greeted by what has probably been the best spell of warm weather that I've experienced in Durham since I first arrived in 2010. Preparing me for my return to Singapore, yet at the same time, making it more difficult to say 'goodbye' to the place. The good weather provided the perfect backdrop for today's Durham Miners Gala, an annual event organised by the Durham Miners Association.

One of the first collieries to march in

Before the closure of mines began during the Thatcher era, coal-mining had been an integral part of life here in the Northeast. It was a privilege to have been able to attend the event this year, having always returned home in late June, and to observe the commemoration of a tradition which had done so much to define the working classes of the region. Although a few friends have asked if it was too Left-leaning for me, I decided to view it as a cultural experience to help to make my time in Durham more complete. ‘You’ll love it,’ Hughie, a dear friend from my local, remarked on our night out when we spoke about the event. Leaving the house at quarter past seven, I made my way along the (still) tranquil riverside to Elvet Bridge where I'd arranged to meet a few mates from Singapore to observe the procession. We managed to secure a quite strategic spot on the other side of the County Hotel to watch the ceremony where I was given a free copy of the Morning Star (probably the first time I've touched a left-wing paper). At half past eight, the procession began with the first banner making its way along the oldest remaining bridge in Durham led by a brass band and past the applauding crowds. As we were to learn, it was the first of about three hundred unique banners, each representing a different colliery hailing from not just the Durham county but also from areas like Northumberland, Peterborough and even Nottingham. The VIPs of the day stood on the balcony of the County Hotel and most banners would halt for a few minutes while accompanying bands played a tune for the guests. Tunes like the familiar 'Blaydon Races' were commonplace but others on the song list included more pop-ish tunes like 'Copacabana' and curiously, Rihanna's 'Umbrella.' We got a chance to speak to a former miner who worked in the Easington pits and he gave us intermittent commentary on the passing banners. One of the banners contained images depicting the West Stanley Pit Disaster during which more than 160 miners were killed. From an outsider's perspective, the pride etched on the faces of the residents following the various banners seemed to point to the enduring strength of local identities. Although the turn-out was large enough, our newfound friend told us that at its peak, about half a million people (he may have exaggerated a little) attended the event and breathing space, which we were afforded plenty today, was scarce.

My favourite banner

After more than two hours of standing by the barricades, we made our way to the Racecourse where the banner processions came to a halt. There were numerous food vans serving burgers and chips - the normal fare - and ice-cream vans were also commonplace. Amusement rides had also been set up, which added to the vibrant atmosphere on the green. We got there early enough - we were told by someone that in an hour, we'd not be able to see the grass - and managed to get on one of the rides (reluctantly, for Kesavan) at the fun fair. It was probably the most frightening one of the lot and we were swung high enough to enjoy great views of the Cathedral while holding our screams. Having planned to spend the afternoon in Newcastle, we left prematurely. We missed the political speeches and the probable outbreak of fights (all my friends who live in Durham told me that this had become a ritual at the annual event). Grateful to have been able to attend the event, it was every bit as fulfilling as many of my local friends promised and even if I never get to attend another one (there are also questions as to whether these events can continue to be financially sustainable), today's experience will remain an indelible one to me and it was a great way of bringing my time in Durham to a close.

@ The Racecourse